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Found 90 question(s). Displayed from 1 to 5 question(s).
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Question 1 |
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March 26, 2008 |
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Category: Cleaning/Sealing
Subject: Pool Pavers
A commercial pool has pavers installed as the pool deck.
The pool and deck are constructed next to a detention pond on the out side. Sand base has leached from under the pavers causing some of them to sink in various areas. We believe the down spouts from the gutters and the fact that drainage is at the rear toward the detention pond has undermined the base. The contractor wants to remove sunken areas and re-install the pavers on the course sand base. Then use the polymeric grout to seal the joints. Then apply a waterproof material over the entire deck. He thinks this will eliminate the washout from drains and heavy rains.
I would like to know if you think this is acceptable. Should a geotextile fabric be used???
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Without looking at the project to get a better understanding, what the installer suggested is a good start. However, it sounds as if some of the sand could still leach out.
Using a filter fabric to contain the sand maybe the best bet.
I would suggest you consult an engineer so the issue is addresses properly.
Moderator 9
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Question 2 |
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February 02, 2008 |
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Category: Pavers
Subject: problem
Pavers installed on lanai in2004. We just purchased home and noticed a white powdery residue on the bricks. We had the pavers professionally power washed and when the pavers dried the powder started coming though again. The guy swept it up and sealed pavers but when dry again the white spots came back . The company that cleaned it has no idea what is causing the problem, any thoughts or ideas to correct this.
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Without actually seeing the pavers, it is difficult for me to provide an answer.
However, based on your description of the problem it sounds like it is efflorescence.
Efflorescence is caused by free calcium hydroxide within the pavers which then reacts with the carbon dioxide in the atmosphere to form a white, calcium deposit. This deposit will eventually weather off the concrete paver, or can be washed off with a proper paver cleaner and efflorescence remover.
Just pressure washing is not enough to remove efflorescence. It requires using a specific cleaner that can remove the deposit.
Now that the pavers are sealed, the sealer would have to be removed for the efflorescence cleaner to work.
Do you know if the pavers are 1” laid over concrete or 2 3/8” that are sand set?
Pavers laid over a concrete will have a greater chance in developing efflorescence because water may not properly drain underneath the brick, causing it to hydrate back up through the paver bringing the calcium from the raw materials used to make the paver to the surface.
Paver Systems (800) 356-7283 carries a complete line of paver care products. It is important that you use products specifically made for pavers and not an “all purpose” concrete cleaner or sealer. Although pavers are made of concrete, it is a total different mix design than your typical poured in place concrete.
Moderator 7
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Question 3 |
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February 02, 2008 |
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Category: Pavers
Subject: free standing wall
I just attended a seminar by the NCMA on retaining walls and I must say I learned alot. I'm a contractor just breaking into the hardscapes and I have a question pretaining to free standing walls. I have 3 walls I'm building, not retaining, that have a total of 6 pillars for total length combined of 80ft. My question is in order to get the first course level/straight, do I place a layer (1") of sand bedding so I can set the stones in. When I think of this I think that if this was the case I would have to use edge restraints on both sides so that the sand didnt go anywhere. This doesn't make much sense to me so the way I would approach it is to do my best to get the aggregate base compacted/leve enough for me to lay the stones level. Is this correct. Also, I 'm dealing with somewhat of a slope from the 1st wall to the 3rd wall (they will all be in a linear line). If I excavate the base all the same, lets say 10-12", then how do I make up for the slope difference when I'm trying to match all the pillars and walls at the same height. I'm thinking I would either have to bury a lot of product which I don't want to do because it would be wasted money, or based on my slope I have to build my walls in a lay-base-step-lay-base-step process. Let me know.... I'm confused. I'm taking the ICPI courses next month. Emailing me would work the best. Thank You.
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This is not an acceptable material. Too much water retention for a base material.
Moderator 11
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Question 4 |
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September 21, 2007 |
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Category: Pavers
Subject: product info
I saw some pavers on the show "Flip this House". They looked like brick pavers that came in sheets, connected on the back, sort of how tile you might put up in a bathroom is. This made the installation go very quickly. What might this product be called. How do people in the industry think of it? The drive in the show was flat. How would it work on a driveway that slopes down? Thanks for your help.
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Adrienne, I am not familiar with this product you describe. It sounds like a product called Portstone, but I’m not sure. If it is Portstone then I would question its durability because it is a thin material, and it is also laid in a thin set mortar application which wouldn’t be able to withstand too many Michigan winters.
As far as using a material like this on a sloped driveway, I’m not sure if it would make a difference. When using a standard brick paver, the install starts at the bottom of the slope and then works uphill. If you have any other questions, please feel free to reply.
Best regards,
Moderator 6
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Question 5 |
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September 13, 2007 |
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Category: Pavers
Subject: repairing pavers set on concrete
I have a thin paver walkway set on a 4" concrete bed. Due to a drainage problem one section began cracking after 15 years. I have removed the paver (the motor was degraded by the water) and exposed the crack. I would like to repair the section since the remaining walkway is in excellent condition. I realize that future movement of the contrete is likely around the crack and I have few extra pavers for repairs.
I was thinking of cutting out the cracked section of contrete and replacing it before resetting the pavers, possibly drilling re-enforcing bars into the old concrete to attachedit to the new. Alternatively I was thinking of setting the pavers without adhesive but motoring them in place (in essence floatng the pavers so that the motor joint would crack before the paver). What is the best way to repair this type of problem.
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Michael, your problem with cracked concrete under pavers is a very common problem. Anytime you have pavers that have been laid on top of concrete, there is a chance for cracks, and breakage. The quick and easy fix to this is to do as you said in your email, and relay the concrete.
Of course you will always have that chance of future cracking. The long turn fix would be to, remove all of the concrete, and relay the product on a proper 4-8 inches of copacted 21aa crushed limestone, and then a 1 inch layer of bedding sand. This method will eliminate your current problem, and will last a lifetime. Will no possibility of cracking, during our freeze thaw cycles.
Moderator 7
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