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Search results for category "Do-it-Yourself".
Found 21 question(s). Displayed from 1 to 5 question(s).
Question 1     September 06, 2010

Category:  Do-it-Yourself

Subject:  leveling sand compaction rate

Bob,

Don’t compact the leveling sand before laying the pavers then allow for ¼” of settling when you compact the pavers. Fill the paver joints with sand and leave a light layer of sand on the pavers while compacting.

Regards
Moderator 6
.............................

I am installing a concrete paver patio. The top surface of the pavers needs to be flush (horizontal) to a concrete landing. I plan to add 5 inches of road base (compacted) and 1 inch of leveling sand (concrete sand) and then my pavers. How much should I compensate for compaction of the leveling sand so that the paver surface and my concrete landing surface are flush?
Replies: NO
Question 2     March 09, 2009

Category:  Do-it-Yourself

Subject:  Edging and Pavers over Sidewalk

I have a sidewalk that slopes and everytime it rains, I have a good deal of run off water and dirt that washes onto my sidewalk. I would like to raise my sidewalk up some to stop this from happening and to put an edge around it on both sides. Can I just get nice pavers and lay them on top of the existing sidewalk? Can I also put some type of edging around it to make it look nicer and prevent the water from going over it? We have a small catch basin near the sloped area, but it must be clogged or something because it doesn't drain the water out very well. Anyway, any advise would be awesome. I'm a woman and do most of this type of work at home, myself.
........................................

Overlayments of pavements of all types are certainly possible. It all depends on the condition of your current pavement and the ability to meet existing grade elevations. Please keep in mind that you will be building up off of your pavement any where from 3" - 4" if we overlay, will the surrounding levels allow for that or are they able to be built up as well.

It is likely your catch basin is clogged and it may be as simple as running a snake through it to clear it out. If you would like me to recommend someone to look at your conditions I would be glad to put them in touch with you. They would be able to give you more clear advice after viewing your conditions.

Moderator 4
Replies: NO
Question 3     August 09, 2008

Category:  Do-it-Yourself

Subject:  Front sidewalk

Message: I am going to be taking out our current entry sidewalk which is concert and replace it with pavers. With considerations of having to take out a portion of the sidewalk in order to match up to the driveway and the fact that we want to round off the one corner I think it best to just remove the sidewalk as it isn't that long. With that considered I would be starting in the soil.

1. Will I have to compact the soil before the crushed rock?

Yes, after the excavation you will run your compactor over the native soil, overlap each pass with the compactor then on the second pass you will go perpendicular to the first pass of the compactor.

2. The whole compacting step is new to me and am not familiar with compacting. Judging that it is a feel how does one determine that each compacted step is sufficiently?

You are correct it is a feeling you get on how the compactor reacts. Following the same process above you will find the compactor will start jumping more and more as you compact that means that you are reaching maximum density.

3. How deep should the crush rock be prior to compacting and after?

Since the maximum lift that you can compact is 4 inches and you need 4 inches of base, you will install approximately 2.5 inches of base compact, then install another 2.5 inches of base and compact again. This should give you a final base course of 4 inches.

4. I have read that the sand layer should be between 1 and 1 1/2" think is that before or after compacting that layer?

Your setting bed should be 1 inch thick and that is before compaction. Compaction is done after the setting of the paver.

5. And once the bricks are laid there is a last compacting step correct? If so I assume that one has to consider this when prepping the area and allow to finish higher than need to allow for the final compacting to match the driveway and front porch, what would that be if all prior compacting steps are done correctly?

Yes, when you screed your sand setting bed you want to account for the compaction that you will be doing later, so if you screed your sand bed so that when you set your paver on the sand bed, the paver is between ¼ inch – 3/8 inch above finish grade. You will then put a thin layer of sand over the paver, not worrying about sweeping the joints at this time, just a layer to protect the pavers from the metal base of your compactor, and start compacting the perimeter first as seen below. After compacting then you can fill your sand joints.

Moderator 6
Replies: NO
Question 4     August 31, 2007

Category:  Do-it-Yourself

Subject:  Patio Project

We put concrete patio blocks down on a sand base and outlined the blocks with brick pavers. We did this inside a area outlined with landscape timbers. After laying the blocks down and leveling them we swept more sand into the joints. The problem was we were given play sand instead of mortar sand and now all the sand is coming out of the joints. What can we do? What type of sand can we get and where can we get it to fill in the joints? We don't want to take out all 200 blocks and start over. Please HELP??? Thanks.
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Tom,

Sorry for the problems you are having.
We recommend Polymeric Sand. This sand has an additive that makes the sand harden to prevent it from washing out.

The closest distributor to you will be:
Shelton Landscape in Chattanooga - 423-593-4956

If you have any problems let me know.

Moderator 7

Replies: NO
Question 5     June 29, 2006

Category:  Do-it-Yourself

Subject:  Installing pavers on wet concrete base

My dad and I are planning to rip out his existing aggregate concrete sidewalk and would like to replace it with a paver sidewalk. We have already begun excavation and are getting ready to buy the next set of materials.
We plan to dig fairly deep, then lay the recommended rock base, then sand, then a thin concrete/mortar base (maybe an inch or a little more); then while the concrete is wet, we will lay the pavers on it and will push them into the concret a bit to set them. Once each section is completed, we would like to mortar in between the pavers to complete it.
I have several questions. I know it is recommended to put sand as the base, however he wants to set the pavers in concrete and with mortar between in order to prevent weeds from growing (this is their retirement home and he wants this to be fairly maintenance and weeding free) - will this work alright? Also, have you heard of using dry mortar, spreading dry mortar in between the pavers and then wetting it down once it's all in the paver cracks? Is this normal dry mortar, but you don't mix it with sand/water, you just put it on dry and wet it after it's laid out? Thanks.
........................................................

You can set pavers in mortar and that will help with weed control. You can also install the pavers in a normal fashion and use polymeric sand to control weed growth. This sand has polymers mixed in with it that hardens when a misted with a garden hose. In this application you could avoid setting the pavers in mortar.

Moderator 12

Replies: NO
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